Peru.travel describes Cusco in three words that say almost everything: "A living empire". And it is true in the most practical sense: on Inca foundations rose a colonial city of cobbled streets, squares, bell towers and roofs tumbling down the hillside, with mountains in every photograph. For a couple it is one of South America's most memorable destinations, but it demands planning three things that do not allow improvisation: altitude, getting to Machu Picchu and safety.
Altitude rules
The UK Foreign Office (FCDO) says altitude sickness is a serious risk in some parts of Peru and names Cusco explicitly. This is not a detail: it decides whether the trip goes well. Allow slack on your first day, drink water, eat lightly, avoid alcohol and exertion on arrival, and consult a travel doctor well in advance about any medication. If a symptom worsens, descend and seek care.
Trains, protests and flexible bookings
Protests in Peru are unpredictable and can cause road blocks and transport disruption. The FCDO lists Cusco among places with recent protests and says southern trains, including those to Machu Picchu, are sometimes suspended or altered. Book with flexible cancellation, leave a spare day before international flights and carry water, food, local cash and medication. It is illegal for foreigners to take part in demonstrations.
Safety in the city
Street theft is a significant problem in Cusco, says the FCDO, as in Lima and Arequipa. Do not display expensive items, do not use your phone in the street, use cash machines inside banks or shopping centres and avoid walking alone at night in quiet areas. Fake taxi drivers and express kidnapping have been recorded in large cities; use licensed taxis booked by your hotel or an app.
Health
Beyond altitude, the FCDO lists yellow fever, malaria, Zika and Oropouche as country risks, a major dengue outbreak after flooding and frequent diarrhoea from contaminated food or water. Get vaccine advice at least eight weeks ahead, drink bottled or treated water and take insurance with evacuation.
Nightlife and the lifestyle scene
Cusco is a cultural and adventure destination; we found no official source documenting swinger venues and therefore list none. Nightlife centres on bars and clubs in the historic centre. If anyone proposes private parties or drugs, decline: drug sentences in Peru are long and prisons are in very poor condition. Packing your own bag, carrying no one else's luggage and not taking coca leaves or tea out of the country are official tips.
Planning a couple's trip
The best return: sleep in the centre, spend day one strolling slowly, book trains and official tickets early and keep a spare day. With that scheme Cusco delivers what it promises: history, stone, mountains and sunsets.
FAQ
How long to acclimatise? It varies by person; the FCDO only says altitude sickness is a serious risk, so see a travel doctor.
Can trains to Machu Picchu be suspended? Yes, the FCDO says they sometimes are because of protests.
Are there verified swinger venues? No: no verified official website.
Can I buy coca to take home? The FCDO advises not taking coca leaves or tea out of the country.
A sensible visiting order
Spend day one adapting: a short stroll on cobbled streets, a light meal and rest. On day two, take in the squares, bell towers and churches of the centre calmly. Leave Machu Picchu and other excursions for when you are acclimatised, and with slack in case the train is suspended, which the FCDO mentions. Confirm hours and tickets only on official websites and do not buy from anyone who approaches you on the street.
What to pack
Layers, sunscreen, sunglasses, water and personal medication. A printed passport copy, local cash in case of blockades and insurance with evacuation. As a couple, split medication and documents between two bags.
Respect for heritage and people
Cusco is a living city and a sacred place for many people. Respect religious spaces, do not touch historic structures and ask permission before photographing locals. Keep discretion and decorum in public; any adult-oriented plan must stay private and consensual.
Last-minute checklist for Cusco
Before leaving, go through these points as a couple: accommodation confirmed with the address on paper; arrival transport booked through an official channel; a printed passport copy; travel insurance with local medical care and evacuation; cash split between two bags; and a plan B in case conditions change. Official advisories highlight altitude, theft and protests, so check your own government's advice on the day you leave.
Also agree a code word to leave any uncomfortable situation without explanations, and share your location with someone you trust during the night. Enjoying a destination starts with arriving and returning without scares. If any doubt arises about a venue, a party or an invitation, always prefer what is verifiable: official websites, public addresses and cross-checked reviews. And if something does not add up, the best decision is always not to go.
